New Orleans: Unexpected, Gorgeous, Delicious... and Totally Indulgent

Before setting foot in Louisiana and arriving in New Orleans, I had no idea what to expect from a city like this. I had envisioned a place full of history and old buildings with a certain charm and French street names, and that is indeed the case. However, I was not prepared for the vibrant atmosphere of the city.

New Orleans is a city that has suffered greatly and been marked by horrible tragedies (including Hurricane Katrina, which devastated the city in 2005!) and I believe these traumas have led the residents to live in the moment and enjoy life to the fullest without worrying about potentially devastating tomorrows. It's a bit of the city's motto: in New Orleans, we eat well, drink well, and have a good time, at least as long as we can.

🤷‍♂️ How Did I Get Talked Into This? I somehow got roped into a road trip through the South, thanks to some good friends from Memphis who insisted I had to see their city. We started there and made our way down to the beautiful chaos of New Orleans. Along the way, we stopped for fried “specialties” and endless laughs. By the time we hit NOLA, I was fully onboard with the madness, music, gum and beignets. It was the perfect chaotic end to a perfectly chaotic trip!

Access to downtown is via the highway (either from the airport or from the North) and the first surprising thing is that this multi-lane highway is actually an endless concrete bridge over swamps and vast expanses of water! This bridge spans 20 miles (!) and is one of the longest bridges in the world. Quite impressive. But it's especially where you realize that the city is surrounded by water absolutely everywhere, and at that moment I still don't fully grasp (but I will!): the entire city is built and stands below the water level!

Our hotel, Hotel Provincial, and our headquarters for four days in the city is right in the downtown area in the old square commonly known as the "French Quarter," and it's an ideal base because we won't be using the car for the next four days.

Experience the Vibrant Soul of New Orleans in the French Quarter

One cannot come to New Orleans without passing through the French Quarter! It is the neighborhood at the heart of the city famous for its Cajun restaurants, jazz clubs, bars, lively nights, and beautiful multi-story houses with wrought iron balconies.

So yes, obviously the neighborhood is touristy and crowded but I really enjoyed the atmosphere and being in the middle of all the hustle and bustle. The streets are full of people, music at every corner, people singing, dancing, and partying! In New Orleans, just like in Las Vegas, it is possible to drink in the street (which is strictly forbidden in other American cities); so people let loose and the atmosphere is one of debauchery and excess, but it's something you have to experience at least once. And as I mentioned earlier, partying in New Orleans may also be a way to forget all the hardships the city has endured.

So, with our cocktail in hand, we stroll through the old French quarter and observe all these people doing the same as us. Speaking of cocktails, the city's bartenders even created a cocktail mixing several alcohols, named the "Hurricane" cocktail, and the city's bars serve this drink. As always, Americans never let themselves be defeated and always create something new to sell even in the most difficult times.

Returning to the architecture of the neighborhood, the houses are absolutely beautiful. The streets are narrow like in Europe; street names are in French (and Spanish because the city was also occupied by the Spanish monarchy before becoming French) and you can notice and discover a lot of elements from the past like gas lamps under the porches in almost every street (which I find creates a superb ambiance!) and the bronze horse hitches in front of houses or hotels.

One of the most famous and lively streets in the neighborhood is Bourbon Street, named after the French royal family. Here you will find plenty of bars and everything you need to sing and dance all night long... and once again, a plethora of stunning buildings!

The central point of the neighborhood is the "Jackson" Square (named after the president) where the magnificent Saint Louis Cathedral, built in 1718, stands. The interior of the cathedral is worth a photo.

And right next to it is the former seat of the Spanish crown (the Cabildo, to the left of the cathedral in the photo), which is also the building where the sale of Louisiana by France to the United States, known as the "Louisiana Purchase," was signed in 1803.

Then, just in front of "Jackson Square", you come across the Mississippi River and its steamboats! What is quite strange is that, to access the river and the boats, you have to look up and climb a small hill because - as I mentioned - the city is below the water level! There is a whole mechanism to protect the city with the famous levees that hold back the water and a pumping system to remove excess water in case of a surplus to maintain the water at a constant level. However, in 2005, one of these levees broke, and the entire city was submerged. I must admit that it's a strange idea to build a whole city below the water level!

To recover from my emotions, it's time to take a break and taste the food of Louisiana.

Eating in New Orleans: Quite an Experience!

I was given a heads up: get ready for a taste sensation that will blow your socks off! In Louisiana, we like to keep things interesting... but hey, it's delicious! So, for my grand culinary debut, I dove right in: crocodile nuggets, turtle soup, and crispy catfish. Surprisingly enough, it's pretty darn good!

Then there are also all the essential "Cajun" or Creole dishes that you must try in New Orleans, and there are very good restaurants in the city to discover all these dishes: first, the "gumbo," a kind of stew made with meat or seafood, rice, sausages, and okra, a vegetable I had never heard of before (a kind of spicy pepper); I really loved the gumbo, and the most famous place to try gumbo is the Gumbo Shop; then the "jambalaya," this time made with rice. Jambalaya is a kind of Creole version of paella, and it's really good (and spicy). Next is the crawfish étouffée, a dish that I loved! After that, you should try the classic New Orleans combo of red beans and rice. For quick meals on the go, you should try the po'boy, which is a type of sandwich.

Finally, for desserts and to my greatest delight: the beignets that are an institution in New Orleans (but beignets are square!). The two famous establishments (which can be found everywhere ... even at the airport where I was able to have one last beignet before leaving!) are "Café du Monde" and "Café Beignets". You can't miss them in the city! And for one last sweet treat, Louisiana is also known for its pralines (to my great surprise!) that can be found in most souvenir shops. I warned you: eating in New Orleans ... quite a program!

Discover the Enchanting Garden District of New Orleans

To the west of downtown and the French Quarter lies the "Beverly Hills" of New Orleans called the "Garden District." It's a charming and upscale neighborhood crossed by the long St. Charles Avenue. Walking along this avenue, you'll pass by magnificent homes and ancient oak trees. Very photogenic! You can also explore the neighborhood by taking the streetcar that passes by all these houses. A lovely neighborhood worth a visit.

Discovering History and Tranquility at Louis Armstrong Park

In the city center, one can take a break, find peace, and stroll through Louis Armstrong Park. Not very large, but the walk there is pleasant. At the park's entrance, after passing under the Great White Arch and to the left, you will find Congo Square, which holds historical significance. It is on this square surrounded by immense oaks that the city's slaves were allowed to gather and enjoy some leisure time every Sunday. The slaves would come there every Sunday to trade, sing, dance, and feel "free" for a short day.

It is also in Congo Square that rituals and religious practices from Africa such as voodoo, which is still present in New Orleans today, were practiced. You can continue your walk in the park and pass by the statue of Louis Armstrong, of course, or stroll along the water feature. It may not be Central Park, but this little park is worth a visit and allows you to relax a bit.

Voodoo, Gris-gris, and Haunted Houses

The voodoo and other rituals arrived in Louisiana with the slaves from Africa and remained an important element in New Orleans. While walking around the city, it is impossible to miss the different voodoo shops, haunted houses that can be visited, voodoo dolls in souvenir shops, and there is even a voodoo museum in the French Quarter! All of this adds a unique and intriguing atmosphere to the city.

For a little background, if you stroll through the old French Quarter, you may notice that the tops of many houses' porches are often painted sky blue. The reason? According to beliefs, painting the top of the porch or the interior ceilings of the house in blue would confuse evil spirits who would mistake these ceilings for water, and ghosts and spirits can never cross a body of water. Painting ceilings blue is believed to ward off spirits.

I didn't have time to visit the Voodoo museum or go see the tomb of the famous Voodoo priestess, Marie Laveau, but I still bought my mini little Voodoo doll (they sell a bunch, each one funnier than the next!).

The Plantation Road

While traveling to Louisiana, I absolutely wanted to venture out of New Orleans and drive along the Mississippi on the plantation road to see these homes with a difficult past right along the river. It doesn't take long to reach the first plantations. After just about forty minutes of driving, you can see the first homes (below are Destrehan Plantation and the colorful San Francisco Plantation).

However (big downside!), I was not warned that this road is now known to be the route of oil refineries and other chemical products of all kinds (the road is unfortunately also renamed by the local population: the cancer road!). I imagined the plantations of the South along the Mississippi surrounded by fields and old oaks, which is not the case at all. The plantations are now among the various refineries along the river, and these refineries are gigantic. I admit that it really impacts the landscape, and it's difficult to ignore these immense industrial complexes that have been installed along this road.

Most of the "big" and "famous" plantations are quite close to each other over a distance of barely fifty kilometers, and it's possible to see and visit quite a few plantations in one or two days. I have selected a total of eight plantations to visit in two days, including three plantations to visit completely (including the interior), five other plantations to see from the outside... and a night in a plantation (which turned out to be fantastic!). All of this is easily doable in two days.

Now, how to choose the three plantations to visit inside/outside?

First, the most famous one, the one you have already seen in photos and is all over Instagram: the plantation with the magnificent alley of old centenary oaks, the Oak Plantation. This one is a must-see without any hesitation, and I managed to take a photo of the oak alley without anyone around! Initially, I wasn't particularly interested in visiting the interior, but in the end, I did it anyway, and the visit was very pleasant. Generally, the interior visits are guided, and it's interesting to listen and learn about the history of the plantation.

Now, another downside: the plantations are indeed magnificent homes from another time, but we must not forget that these homes were all built, maintained, and operated by thousands of slaves, often at the risk of their lives. Out of the three plantations I visited with a guide, only one of these plantations (and its guided tour) truly emphasized the life of slaves on the plantation (and paid tribute to the slaves), which I find very important. What irritated me is that another guided tour of a plantation completely ignored and set aside the lives of the slaves. There was no mention of any slave on the plantation, and the guide simply listed the decorative elements and extravagant furniture in each room, even though these plantations could only exist through the inhumane work imposed on the slaves. In the middle of the tour, we interrupted the guide and asked him the question: "Apart from describing the mirror in the bathroom and the clock in the living room, will you mention the slaves who lived and worked here?" The guide was, then, quite embarrassed and explained to us that the new owners of the plantation did not wish to focus on these elements of the past and that the tour script should not mention the slaves under any circumstances, which I find quite deplorable.

Going back to the famous and very photogenic Oak Plantation and its oak tree-lined avenue, the visit has focused on the lives of slaves and has been reorganized as such in recent years after numerous complaints and questions like ours to the guides who did not mention these slaves. It is now possible to visit the former slave quarters and a lot of information is available, including a wall where the names of all the slaves who passed through the plantation are inscribed.

The plantation that, in my opinion, pays a poignant tribute to the slaves who lived there is the Laura Plantation, and our guide detailed all aspects of life on the plantation, including the life of the slaves, the slave trade, the price of each slave, their work, and their hardships on the plantation. That's why I had chosen to visit that one as well. Laura Plantation is a Creole plantation, and the guided tour is very well done (in English or French). Most plantations around New Orleans cultivated sugarcane, not cotton as I had thought.

We stayed at the Houmas Plantation (photo below), which is an absolutely beautiful place. Small residences have been built on the estate and it was truly a fantastic place, with stunning gardens, an excellent restaurant, and the unique Turtle Bar. It was a really enjoyable night before heading to New Orleans airport the next day, having one last beignet, and then leaving Louisiana.

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The Quick Recap (Too Long To Read Edition)

• 🌟 What Was The Highlight Of My Trip? The architecture and vibe of the old French Quarter. Even though New Orleans is a bit of a party town, touristy, excessive, and a little wild; I found it incredibly charming with its narrow European-style streets, voodoo atmosphere, constant live music, and overall quirkiness (though I get that it’s not for everyone; definitely not the most kid-friendly spot!). Plus, big bonus for the food! I ate way too well during my stay.

  
  

• 📅 How Many Days? Two to three days in New Orleans, with an extra day or two if you want to explore the famous plantation road, depending on how many plantations you’re up for seeing! But, timing is everything in Louisiana! Summer (up until mid-October) is prime time for high humidity...and hurricanes in the Gulf of Mexico! Katrina hit in August, after all. I’ve even had to cancel a Louisiana trip once thanks to a hurricane making an entrance. Winter or spring are ideal for a visit; the temps are milder, the humidity is less intense (though yes, it’s still humid! Get ready to sweat!), and the risk of hurricane interruptions is low.

  
  

• ⚡ Energy Level For This Adventure? Let’s call it a solid "Level 3 Tired". New Orleans is not for the faint of heart. Between the constant music, the parade of food that kept finding its way to my plate, and the abundance of drinks and cocktails, my body didn’t know if it was at a party or running a marathon. The mix of eating, drinking, and walking around in Louisiana humidity left me feeling like a sponge that’s been wrung out one too many times. Dehydration hit new levels. If you head to New Orleans, pack a water bottle, a snack, and maybe a spare liver; you’ll thank me later.